The Surfing Lifestyle and how to Live it
Although the iconic image of a surfer is one of a relaxed individual living an easy life, the reality often necessitates certain sacrifices and a lifestyle somewhat removed from that as perceived by non-surfers.
Truly living a surfer’s lifestyle is not about how you look, what you wear or just having a surfboard tucked under your arm. It is about an attitude, a commitment to the ocean and accepting that almost everything has to take second place when the waves begin to roll in.
Those who have fully committed themselves to surfing generally tend to do it in one of two ways – by moving to the ocean and surfing at a dedicated break day in and day out or by letting go of the normal trappings of life and travelling the world on a constant quest for the perfect wave. In either case, an individual will often find themselves having to live frugally in order to achieve their goal and, in the case of a nomadic surfer, will have to accept living without many of the luxuries and conveniences that are considered the norm. This also includes possessions, relationships and those things which are usually taken to signify security and stability.
For those who are totally immersed in surfing it becomes the number one priority, with anything else having to be fitted in around it. This means surfers must be happy to remain single, have an incredibly tolerant and understanding partner or enter a relationship with another surfer as passionate about the sport as they are.
Another thing which has to take a back seat is work. This doesn’t mean passionate surfers are work shy, just that holding down a regular 9 to 5 job is hard – the ocean doesn’t work to a schedule. Therefore many surfers work casually or create their own jobs through self-employment that allow them complete freedom with the hours they work. For travelling surfers they must take on whatever work comes their way as they go in order to finance continuance of their lifestyle. In all these scenarios regular income and large wages are unlikely meaning the surfer has chosen his passion over the need for acquisition or a more secure and comfortable financial position.
To surfers who have chosen to live outside of conventional lifestyles, surfing is typically not viewed as a sport – it is a way of life and in some cases almost spiritual. Even among those surfers involved in the competitive circuit, the competition is viewed by some as a means to finance their surfing habit. For those fully immersed in a surfing lifestyle, surfing is an addiction. It becomes impossible to view a beach scene in a film without checking out the ocean in the background for waves and exotic, tranquil beach scenes suddenly look ugly because there is no surf. An enormous amount of time is taken up with studying weather charts and swell predictions.
For much of its modern history and certainly in the last ten years, surfing has become synonymous with ‘cool’ and as a result has attracted many individuals looking to buy into that image. However, purely in its basic form as a sport, surfing is an incredibly difficult activity to master to any advanced level of competence, has many dangers associated with it and can be downright scary and intimidating. It takes commitment and a certain attitude to go the distance. Furthermore, many surfers are dismayed at the way in which surf clothing and branding has taken over high street fashion and become far removed from what it began as. As a result, many long term and dedicated surfers have distanced themselves from all such things and those who wear the surfing logos and brand clothing are often as not advertising the fact that they are in love with the surf image rather than anything else.
For many of those living a surfer’s lifestyle, their state has gradually evolved, as surfing gradually takes over more and more of their lives, rather than a conscious decision at any given moment to live a certain way. As such you cannot tell another how to live a surfer’s lifestyle – it is too personal and it is either in your soul or it isn’t; trying to achieve a certain image only places you in the wanna-be category.
