When I think about Papua New Guinea, I think of Dr. Seuss and his wonderful work, “Oh, The Places You’ll Go.” Nothing could be more true when you encounter the world of Papua New Guinea. It is an incredible place. Filled with people of colors and languages far more diverse than you can imagine, it is fascinating. I am not sure you could ever tire of the people to see and the places to go. A few years back, our family decided we would move to PNG and so we began the quest of what, how, when, and where.

To this day, we are thankful we did not see some of the things we read about. We are equally thankful we did not see some things we did encounter because we might have changed our mind. When I read these words: “Port Moresby is the most dangerous port in the world. If you get out of this place without being beaten, robbed, or raped, consider yourself lucky”… I was standing in Port Moresby!  By that time, I had seen all kinds of things and we had also seen some of the kindest things. When we took a stroll on the beach, my husband’s camera was hanging a little low. Someone pulled him aside and graciously told him to watch his camera because people like to steal them from foreigners. When we spoke in a church, they fixed a terrific dinner in our honor and we were the only ones to eat! We had a handicapped child. When we laid Rachel on her mat, the ladies all gathered around her. They didn’t want her just lying. In broken English, they told me how strong I must be to handle her as they squeezed my badly sunburnt arm! The weather is a thick hot most of the time. The sand and the seashells are astonishing.

We swam with the “ex-pats” and sang with the children. We visited schools and parks. We stayed in a very plain Guest House with grounds that reminded me of the best hotels. We experienced a great deal in a short time as we enjoyed our adventure. One night, we stayed in a Catholic Mission. We had to be locked in before 6pm because of the crime, so we sat behind the gates watching the people. Our little girl was swinging on the fence and an Indian screamed at her to get down… now! Then he came over to tell us that it could be very dangerous for her since the black market would be interested in a blonde-haired girl. He spent a good bit of time telling us about his world in the Port and his girlfriend asked him why. He replied that we were dumb Americans and likely to get ourselves hurt if he wasn’t there! I suspect he was right.

We did have a scare when we went grocery shopping. As we went to get in line and purchase our goods, the lights went off, the police and dogs showed up and the doors were locked! About 30 minutes later, we were released and are still not sure what went down. We were told to stay off the public transportation since it was not unusual for the Rascals to invade the buses, throw the men off and rape the women. That was enough to deter us! We walked everywhere or someone we knew came and picked us up.

We did get to see a variety of housing options. Naturally, the ex-pats were well-covered by whatever business had sent them. One had a nice, but small apartment on the hillside with a pool, and it was charming. The other had a high-rise apartment with a concrete playground. Some Indonesian friends had a house that reminded me of some relatives’ home in Ohio. The native friend’s housing was on a good bit of land, but it was sparse. They had no running water or utilities and fourteen people shared the house. We asked about buying land and building. In PNG, you must be part of a tribe to acquire land. This may have changed by now, but at the time, it was nigh unto impossible to come in from another country and outright buy a place of any kind. It is relatively easy to get into this country. They are very open with visas and such, unlike New Zealand, but to live in PNG, you should first consider apartment living.

PNG gained its independence from Australia in 1975. Because it is a relatively new country, the economy is changing as rapidly as many other things. At the time we visited, we noticed a gallon of milk was nearly $8.00, but the average salary was 62 cents a day!  We purchased expensive perfumes because they were so cheap, and yet other things were too expensive. Their economy is a mixture of Australian and Asian imbalances. Rarely does a native have his own business. Over 70 percent of the nation lives in poverty not even resembling American poverty. They have basically put two nations together, as Papua and New Guinea were not always a united island. There is a predictable collapse to come in this nation where 800 languages, a new political power reigns, and changes in every area exist. There are over 6 million people and 1000 different kinds of culture groups. Yes, it is a haven for anthropology!

The island is divided into several different landscapes, but it is nothing like the different little towns you find on Martha’s Vineyard. There are the Western Highlands, the Port, the tribal properties, the lowland, and  Sepik River… and more. Most people who work outside of the Port and live in another geographical area are missionaries or scientists of various kinds. Most of these are supported by outside sources and do not rely on PNG for their economic survival. The Aussies and Asians run most of the businesses and there is a great deal of mistrust. The churches are generally English in design of worship and building. The schools are uniform and poorly addressed. As with most countries, education does not continue as long as it does in the U.S., and there is an issue with the females and education.

We found PNG to be beautiful landscaping. It is slightly larger than California and sits in a coral sea that could make it a tropical vacation spot.  We particularly enjoyed the island of LeaLea but could not imagine how we were going to get a wheelchair across the ocean inlet. We looked at the twigs that made the bridge and we made it, but were amazed, especially when we came to a skip in the twigs!

The animals are intriguing. Most of the land is not particularly good for farming and trading is often a way of life, but agricultural is still 85% of the livelihood.  We found the people to be warm, inviting, kind and generous to a fault. We learned a great deal from them and left wishing we could return. We decided not to live there for a variety of reasons, but the idea always seems worth considering. Though Pidgin English is used most often, it did not make understanding any easier. When we were scheduled to leave, there was an airport strike. (Everyone should go to PNG just for the Indiana Jones airport!) We had 10 plane changes so we were anxious Americans. Our friends were saying the typical… if not today, tomorrow… phrase, and we felt no better. We did leave , after a tense delay and a visit from police who needed one of the passengers!

All in all, if you are thinking of moving to PNG, I highly recommend a trip first. There just is no better way to research a place than to be there yourself. Give yourself a month and enjoy as much variety as you can. If at all possible, have contacts for safety in the event you need them, and do not count on New Tribes Missions or the Salvation Army to take you in. Both are behind bars and the people working them are not as friendly as the natives. Watch for the street gangs called Rascals and travel with others, if possible. Be polite and ask questions. Most people are willing to help you but have a very different lifestyle than you do. Once there, as with our family, I think you will be able to make a decision on calling PNG home. The families we met who came from other countries and worked in the Port were exceptional people in every way. They all seemed to love where they were and what they were doing. Perhaps that is the key to PNG living. By all means, experience this delightful country. Watch yourself in the Port just like you would in the gang-infested land of Los Angeles and get to know the people who have built a life on an island. The adventure is worth the cost, and who knows? You just might find your self loving every minute of it.