The Many Layers of Heian Garb

Wafuku: A word that describes the Clothing of Wa’, or specifically Japanese Attire. The style and meaning of clothing changed throughout the Nara Era, leading up to the Heian Period where Wafuku reached its lofty peak in elegance and picturesque impressiveness. While still influenced by China in terms of fashion, Heian Japan eventually developed its own identity in the sense of a beauty-conscious society.

Juni-hitoe is a term that denotes twelve layers of robes’, referring to the particular way Heian Women wore their clothing during certain seasons, events, or trends. Granted, twelve layers wasn’t the necessary limit. For the most part, noblewomen or those of the Imperial Court wore five layers, each colour representing one’s rank/social standing.

In accordance to the various events that revolved around Heian-kyo, women took care to choose their colours wisely, down to the intricate accessory. Layered gowns could be lined or unlined due to changes in the seasons, where the layered kinu’ reflected the certain characteristic of that time. This later leads to the aesthetic expression Kasane no Irome’ that identifies the colour combinations utilized for Heian Formal Court Garments for the Empresses, Princesses, and Ladies-In-Waiting. Because they usually wore five layers, their garb was called Itsutsu-ginu’, even though some occasions called for more.

The intended layout was to view the shades of colour at the end of a woman’s sleeve, starting with an unlined under-robe or chemise (hitoe) that peeks out from her wrist, covered by a series of robes (kinu). Notably, the hitoe and kinu were plain cloth dyed specific shades, whereas the fabric of the outer robe (uwagi) was designated by rank and the woven patterns.

As an example of Kasane no Irome for an Empresses’ Juni-hitoe, the style of Kobai No Nioi’ or Shades of Plum-pink’ was reserved for special occasions; it consisted of a blue-green or deep-red under robe, followed by four layers (kino o uchiki) of graduating hues from deep plum-pink to a light mauve. The fifth and outer-layer of Itsutsu-ginu’ as a pleasing compliment is pale plum-pink. In result, the Empress’ robes reflect the articulate aspect of observing nature.

In conclusion this article, while briefly analyzing Heian Fashion, offers insight into Traditional Japanese Aesthetics during that Era. From beneath the voluminous sleeves and colorful layers of Juni-hitoe, the ever-adaptive kimono emerged as a simple yet fashionable alternative that is still worn during the Modern Times.

Juni-hitoe Glossary:

Kosode: An under-kimono with small sleeves
Hitoe: A chemise or unlined first layer
Itsutsu-ginu: The 5 layers of lined uchigi or kinu robes
Uchiginu: A stiff-silk garment worn between itsutsu-ginu and uwagi that provided stiffening for formal gowns
Uwagi: Formal over-robe that trailed the floor in varying lengths due to each woman’s position in the Imperial Court
Karaginu: Short Chinese Jacket that could be brocaded, embroidered, or painted
Mo: An apron-skirt that was worn on the back to act as a cascading train’

Resources:

Kimono: Fashioning Culture, Liza Dalby
Fuyuya: http://www.fuyuya.com/kasane/kasane-index.htm
Sengoku Daimyo: http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch14.html
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C5%ABnihitoe