In the south of Ethiopia, in the beautiful Omo valley lives a people called the Hamer. They are a semi-nomadic, pastoral people. They will raise their huts and stay in a place for a few months for their cattle to graze. When needed, they will move on to another area. Cattle is their livelihood. They get milk and meat from these. Any other thing they might need they will trade for. Apart from meat, their staple is sorghum. From this they make a porridge, and also beer!

They are known for their hair-arrangements. Clay and ochre is mixed with the hair, which is then plaited or rubbed into dreadlocks. Both men and women give importance to their hair, and you can see a man plaiting another man’s hair!

Since cattle is so important to them, the manhood initiation rite naturally involves cattle. A man cannot take a wife, or in any way call himself a man if he does not pass the test of running over the backs of cattle. Other young men who have passed this test are roaming the villages and organizing these rites. Not only once does he have to run across the cattle, but four times. While doing this, he has to be completely naked, only a string of grass or bark is tied around his chest. This a symbol of his childhood. If he falls down, he can get another chance, but usually after some time has passed. Once he has done it four times, he will be dressed and a great feast will be spread for several days.

In connection with this rite, before the man starts jumping, another custom that is less appreciated by outsiders take place. The young man’s sisters and cousins are lashed by the young men who have come to assist with the initiation rite. With supple canes, they are given cuts on their backs and sides (the breasts are protected) that leave life-long scars. This they do to encourage their brother to do well, to show they believe in him. Later on in life, if they need help themselves, they will turn to their brother or cousin. The man, in turn, will feel indebted and assist them.

There are about 45,000 Hamer tribes. Basically they are Muslim, but their lives are also mixed with animism. Like with so many other tribal people in the world, the Hamer are feeling the influx of modern culture. Traditionally they dress in skin from antelope and other animals, the women not covering their upper body. This is now giving way to jeans and t-shirts. Some have also converted to Christian religions, with all of the change this entails. Others have been influenced to give up eating certain meat that has long been part of their diet, like donkey.

Hopefully the Hamer people will be able to protect their tribal identity, while co-operating with the influx of tourists and new customs. They are a friendly people, may nobody take advantage of this!